18th April, 2026
Our head sommelier, Soma Oheroczki, is a man on a mission. “When I started here, the wine lists were dominated by the classics, mostly European, Bordeaux, some Italian and Spanish wines,” he says. “I wanted to bring in more of a philosophy to the lists and introduce some less well known, but great wines from places like Greece and Lebanon. I also wanted to add some interesting options by the glass.”
And, as anyone who has recently dined at the Old Course Hotel or even just enjoyed a glass or two at one of our bars will know, Soma has more than achieved his aim. Unsurprisingly, his home country of Hungary is well represented. He points out that while the country’s best‑known red is probably the heartily named Bull’s Blood, it’s far from representative of the delicate, nuanced bottlings that his home winemakers have come to be known for.
“Hungary has a buzzing wine industry,” he says. “There are 22 very good wine regions, most of which are up and coming, but my absolute favourite wine is a dry furmint [a grape native to Hungary] from Tokaj, a region best known for its dessert wines. It’s also become a firm favourite among the staff at the hotel.”
It is Soma’s deep, esoteric knowledge of lesser‑known wine regions that drew us to him in the first place. Having worked every job imaginable in the wine trade, both in Budapest and throughout the UK, he says he was looking for a prestigious establishment to put his stamp on when he took the position at the Old Course Hotel.
Soma’s philosophy is showcased on the list at Road Hole Restaurant, which now offers a red and white from Chateau Musar, the winery that first put Lebanese wines on the map. For rioja, he has turned to Viña Tondonia, the producer he believes to be the best in the region, and, in the Gran Reserva 2012, the most sought‑after vintage.
However, the sommelier’s approach changes from restaurant to restaurant. To accompany the steaks and seafood at Swilcan Loft, Soma suggests the albariño from Spain’s coastal Rías Baixas region – “high acidity, light body and distinct notes of peach, lemon and grapefruit” – the nero d’avola or the Picpoul de Pinet, which, including ports and sherries, now boasts over 15 wines by the glass. A highlight here, according to the sommelier, is a 2005 Chateau Laville sauternes, which he describes as “beautiful and sweet, and best enjoyed with a cheeseboard”.
As for the showstoppers – the kind of bottles you might order to celebrate a hole‑in‑one, perhaps – Soma has had some fun in that department, too. “We’ve got our fair share,” says the Hungarian with a twinkle in his eye. “I’ve got a 1988 Petrus, which is one of the most expensive wines in the world, and I was very lucky to find this lovely aged example. And there’s a very impressive bottle of Domaine de la Romanée‑Conti, an incredibly rare Burgundy, from 2002. For me, these ‘unicorn’ wines only add to the colour of the wine list.”
Something for everyone then, from rare ultra‑premiums to Hungarian dessert wines. Or, if you’re up for a real curveball, Soma has one or two of those up his sleeve, too. Just ask.
